Fatu Hiva 18th - 22nd July 2020

Hanavave Bay - or Bay of Virgins

A beer to celebrate being back in amazing Fatu Hiva

What an amazing sail we had, we didn't really make a plan when we left Nuku Hiva, but just sailed south on the wind. Askari loved it and as we approached each island the wind bent in our favour and we sailed directly into Hanavave Bay in one tack - we never thought that would have been possible when we looked at the forecast. The day was cloudy as we anchored with only two other boats in the bay; later that day Incentive and then Zouterik joined us - party time. They also didn't have a plan to come but here we all were. We spent 4 incredible days with perfect weather, hiking, exploring and we even managed to dives. The highlight was the day we took the dinghy to Omoa on the Sunday morning. This is the main settlement in Fatu Hiva and its really beautiful. We walked through the village just after church finished and all the villagers were in their sunday best, the women particularly with flower crowns and stunning flowery dresses billowing in the wind. Then we met Freddy walking his baby in a pram; he invited us to see his tapa. This village is famous for tapa artists, ink work on bashed out bark - Freddy and his family invited us in to their home, chatted for ages, we bought some of his work, he gave us veg from his garden and then walked us to the dock, also collecting more fruit along the way - the papa's pamplemouse (from the church yard....) turned out to be yummy!

When we got back to Hanavave, Lazy Travels arrived that night and we had a few party's amongst the boats - how fortunate we are in these times to be in this special place, in perfect conditions. When we made landfall in this bay after our Pacific Crossing in 2006, the katabatibc winds drove us away but this time it was perfect in every way.

Andrew chatting with the fishermen

This harbour looked just the same as 2006

We made it to the waterfall - we didn't last time due to shoe malfunction

Quite exciting when this is the view from the window!

New friends in Omoa

Omoa

Sadly the museum was closed

Viewing tapa art with Freddy

This was Freddy's idea

Our good friends on Zouterik - perfect day

hike to the top of the hill

A Koo-koo bird - we love these guys

Great dive here with a cool cave underneath too

Linde and Berber enjoying the perfect day

Cave dive at Fatu Hiva

Back to Taiohae - July 2020

We stayed in Anaho Bay until 7th July and then sailed back to Taiohae. As we sailed around the island we spotted Tiago arriving in Nuku Hiva - there was a birthday that week so a big Dutch gathering was planned in Taiohae.

Laurens' Birthday celebrations on Tiago

The Dutch beauties

Island Tour of Nuku Hiva

We don't often make actual 'tours' but the culture in the Marquises is so interesting we opted to spend the day with local guide Richard to get a private insight into his world. The day was just incredible but mostly as Richard was such a knowledgable modern Marquesan; we talked about everything from the impact of religion to everyday life and what he dream of for his kids. 

Nuku Hiva's own Grand Canyon

Spires on the north of Nuku Hiva

600 year old banyan tree - the roots were used as a store in times of human sacrifice

Lunch stop

Amazing views

We even met the mayor of Taiohae

Kids swimming in Houmii

Carvings in the church at Taipavai

Richard at the church

We went to some private spots as Richard knows everyone

At the amazing historical site at Hatiheau

15th July - Marquesas Day Dancing

What a treat this day turned out to be - the canteen hall was turned into a traditional festival of Haka - complete with drums and dancing, along with cheap local food. It was a wonderful spectacle; the likes of which we have not seen since due to COVID restrictions. I even had my first introduction to Polynesian dancing, an activity that I now get to do 3 times a week; I'm not sure I'm any better though than on day one.

I had a go - with Cecilia and Holly too

This day was so special; whilst we are here as tourists in July we were the only ones. So we feel a bit of a duty to spend a bit of money and be mindful of the fact that many people in these islands are doing it tough as they have lost their income. Nuku Hiva is however a fairly resilient self sufficient island, most people here are part of huge wider family groups so have a support network. The fish in the ocean around here is plentiful and the fishermen give away excess fish to poor. Most families have a bread fruit tree as their first tree planted in their garden, followed by fruit trees. The fruit and veg in the local market is wonderful and so fresh; the ladies always help you pick out the best stuff. The small market is mainly for the yachties and ex-pats as a marquesan is unlikely to need to buy - it's not the cheapest but its plentiful. We do also often get given fruit and veg when we are out and about- more on that later.

In addition to the market there's about 5 small supermarket's in Taiohae and when the supply ships have been they are well stocked up with french cheeses, new zealand meat and lots of other goodies. Over our time here we have got to know the owners of these stores pretty well and they are all super friendly. They will give us a lift back to the dock if we have too much to carry and help us find things. 

There is one posh hotel here, a few snack bars and a pizza restaurant - we feel pretty spoiled!

After stocking up we set sail to the southern Marquesas on 17th July.....