Getting Cultural in Kuna Yala 29th December 2019

Today we had one of the most amazing days. Over Christmas we got to know Yessica and Romiliano as they spent Christmas “camping” on an island near to where we were anchored. We haven’t actually bought any molas or anything from Yessica ,who is a stunning mola maker. We have however provided them with drinking water, kept their phone charged, and shared a few snacks. So yesterday when Romiliano called by Askari, anchored in another spot, to invite us to a ‘Chicha’ ritual on his island how could we resist??

The fabulous, just slightly over-crowded, Maquina Island

Yesterday we headed to an anchorage called Gun Boat island (don’t ask) nearby Isla Maquina but it was untenable in the weather and had to retreat to a more secure spot. No worries as Romiliano came to find us and suggested a better place that would be safe and secure.

A hut near our secure anchorage at Gaigar

This morning we made our way to the protected anchorage near to Isla Maquina Island, however we had to take the dinghy across open water for a mile to get there. On landing the dinghy we were met by suspicious fishermen in t-shirts and caps who tied us up to the little dock. When we asked for Romiliano and Yessica we were quickly led through a maze of narrow tracks, between the bamboo and palm thatched shacks that are home to the 40 families that live on Isla Maquina. At every door way kids peered out at us with dark eyes, some girls with makeup and many with dark lines and patterns painted on their noses, inside the women glanced at us and some smiled widely from under their brightly coloured headscarfs that clash perfectly with the rest of their traditional dress.

Romiliano and Yessica live in one of only two concrete double story houses on the island. It was built by Romalianos father and on arrival we were warmly welcomed, given a plastic chair each to sit on as Kunas sit in hammocks normally and presented with a warm beer (yes I guess they know what yachties like) and having exposure to yachties was definitely paying off for these guys. They had a bank of 5 solar panels, an actual bed (most kuna’s also sleep in hammocks) and a knackered Bluetooth speaker, that Romiliano was super proud of. From their balcony you could see just how close all the other houses are and how much larger their home was.  You could see the ocean all around and the island itself is less than 1 metre above sea level. The “streets” flood when there are storms so having a two-story house is ultimate luxury, however Romiliano’s mother still sat there and stitched a gorgeous brightly coloured mola.

A sneaky picture from the balcony

Andrew enjoys a beer on Romiliano's top deck - complete with xmas tree

It’s not permitted to take photographs and especially not at a culturally sensitive ritual such as Chicha. So I wanted to do my best to describe the day in words. We went with the family to the large hut that is the Chicha hut. Andrew sat on a wooden plank with the men on one side of the sand floored hut and I sat with Yessica and her sister in-law, all huddled in around me and Yessica were about 100 Kuna women, all beautifully dressed in mola covered blouses, vivid sarongs and beads along their legs and arms. Many had painted noses, red cheeks and gold rings through their noses.

Picture from pinterest showing traditional dress

The ceremony all started very seriously with two of the six chiefs perched on stools in the centre with blowing smoke at each other from a rolled up cigar like thing, after every few blows they would take it in turn to go and take a small bowl and share a drink then spit it on the floor. After a few rounds of that some of the women got involved and took a lantern and led a procession out of the hut, men and women, returning a few minutes later with bowls of chicha.

The men then started a kind of stomping dance where they jeered at those facing them and the women did a similar movement on their side of the hut. It started seriously but then they all started giggling and having fun with one another, some women talking or chanting at the liquid. The next stage involved the Chica being brought around to each of us, the bowl of brown looking liquid was handed to me, I glanced at Yessica who told me to drink the whole thing while standing. I can’t say the first one was very nice but managed a second, which had a really nice coffee flavour to it. Over the other side of the hut, I could see Andrew standing more than a foot taller than his Kuna companions doing the same; how bizarre was this….. Kuna’s do not like being filmed as they a fiercely protective of their cultural heritage, therefore when you see a photograph of them they are not smiling, so seeing them party, jest with each other was such a surprise and a treat– they are really kind, beautiful, fun loving, small people.

After the first two rounds it all started getting a bit more haphazard as the effects of this intoxicating drink made from sugar cane took hold, the laughter and jokes among the women was infectious and then smoking took over as pipes, cigarettes and handfuls of sweets were handed around. Tiny Kuna women with gold rings through their noses dressed in traditional outfits smoking pipes are quite a sight. Andrew and Romiliano decided to head to the little dock for a beer while I stayed on a little with the girls. The chief who had started the ceremony came to me and shock my hand and said his island was now my home too. Meanwhile, Andrew paid a $5 fee for our anchorage for 1 month; which meant we were under their protection, and our dinghy was guarded while we were on the island.

We had just the best day and returned to Askari before dark, bought two tuna for $5 from a local fisherman and are safely tucked up in the nearby mangroves. What a total treat that has made our visit to this remote community of indigenous people who keep their traditions alive, even more special.

nearby island as we sailed out