Back in Bora Bora

As we spent most of last season in the Marquesas, Tuamotu and Gambiers we had decided this season we would focus on the Society Islands. Due to COVID the number of boats around was significantly reduced and charter fleets are just starting to get going again as the borders were now open to vaccinated US tourists, so we opted to head furthest West first to the ‘Pearl of the Pacific’ – Bora Bora. Most boats work the way West island hopping, but we had unfinished business with Bora Bora and good friends there who were leaving shortly for Fiji.

Askari - our perfect home in perfect Bora Bora

Perfect SE corner Bora Bora - drone fun

Who wouldn't want to hang out here for a month from Insta #braybraywoowoo

So 8am on 21^st May we pulled up the anchor in Tahiti, made our way to the fuel dock and then left through the southern pass – where there was a surf competition going on – not usually a thing we look for when going through a pass but the surf was neatly to the side. The wind was fairly light, but we manage to sail most of the way with some motor sailing just to keep moving. The moonset between the islands of Tahaa and Raiatea was quite something but the sunrise over Bora Bora was even more spectacular. By 9am the next morning we were tucked up on a mooring ball at the Bora Bora Yacht Club, near to Rick & Sanne on Incentive who promptly rushed over.

 

Approaching Bora Bora pass

Perfect sunset with Rick & Sanne

Moonrise at Bora Bora Yacht Club

That night we all went out to Rick & Sanne’s favourite bar – they have been here a while… Cocktails at St James were delicious and the comfy chairs right on the waterfront were just the ticket – we might have stayed beyond happy hour! The next few days we explored the area around the village of Viatape and re-lived some experiences we had here back in 2006. You might know that the night Andrew and I met, back in 2004 he was living on a boat and said he’d sail me anywhere (how romantic he used to be) I suggested Bora Bora with no idea where it was. Bora Bora became ‘the promise’ that resulted in our first sailing adventure, our  life together in Australia and our marriage. So, to be back here with Askari in the picture we have looked at the wall of every home we had since was pretty tingly – to complete memory lane journey here’s that picture of R2 in the same spot in 2006.

Our R2 in Bora Bora 2006 

Askari in the same spot 2021

Village near to the yacht club

Away from the resorts Bora Bora is perfectly Polynesian

People take such pride in their homes here

Our favourite spot in Bora Bora is tucked away in the South East Corner so as soon as the conditions were good enough to navigate the narrow channel through the reef we set off to spend a couple of weeks enjoying the special blue water that only exists in Bora Bora. While in this perfect spot we undertook some boat jobs as well as enjoying paradise with mostly just a few other boats. Being in a flat calm spot was time to replace the windex and the anchor light that has become the but of many jokes – there’s nothing many of our friends like more than questioning why this Oyster has the worst anchor light in the anchorage…. Well not any more – lopo light conceded it wasn’t working and under warranty finally sent us a new one. Andrew also did a major engine service, major gen service and caught up on small maintenance items. I’m not sure what I did, probably mostly take photos of blue water and go paddle boarding…. I did meet Nui though on one of my excursions who invited us to his home and beach – especially useful when Andrew wanted to add fins to the outboard. Nui and Piigi offered their advice as Andrew worked and then cut fresh coconuts to refresh us after the job was done. Nui has since become our friend and has popped out to Askari for a beer, brought his Wife out to meet us and welcomed us back to his Motu. It felt like a world away from the village over here – that was until the Bucketlust arrived….. 

East side of Bora Bora

Working through the reefs is nerve wracking but we had perfect conditions

Now that is Bora Bora blue

Ready for snorkelling

Raitea and Taha in the distance

Our swimming pool

Can't get enough of the view from our bedroom window

New vs old anchor light bench test

Calm spot for jobs on the top of the mast

Even in a squall it's so pretty

One of the thing that has really changed since we first came to Polynesia is the amount of Catamarans and especially charter cats – now I’m not a Catamaran hater I just prefer real sailing yachts….. However the one’s that just look like a block of flats really do offend me as they never sail and have so many guests they take over. So, when 16 of them sporting huge flags and blow up dolls flying off the back turned up in our paradise to party in a circular raft I was pretty sad. Especially when they anchored in a no anchor zone, near to peoples homes and close to boats with kids, until after dark when the guests were all drunk they un rafted and started driving all around the mooring fields – the only saving grace was that they did have skippers but I was certainly glad when they left next the day; even though they came back to Bora Bora 3 weeks in a row . I’d certainly avoid this group in future- they use boats to party in way that wouldn’t be accepted on land in most places.

Not sailing but partying in front of people's homes

We recommend avoiding this group at any cost

Adding fins to the outboard at Nui's

Nui's - such a warm welcome here in paradise

Bora Reflections

Engine service time

Grumpiness over we flew our drone, went diving with mantas and enjoyed the local people on the motu and in the village on the main island, where we would go every few days for fresh baguettes and vegetables. Bob and Ann on Baloo arrived and we shared snorkel and dive tips, otherwise the charter boats came during mid week and we enjoyed quiet weekends. After a couple of weeks with Andrew’s birthday approaching we moved back around to the West side and took a spot behind another Motu in more shallow clear water but closer to town and other dive spots. Our first dive inside the lagoon turned out to be a real treat when a group of about 50 spotted eagle rays joined us. Outside the pass the diving was nice enough but nothing really special, a few sharks but there’s definitely better spots in French Polynesia.

Motu anchorage - just lovely too

Bloody Mary's

Jimmy Buffet Burger at BMs

For Andrew’s birthday we had booked a table at St James and the evening was just wonderful – what a treat to drive the dinghy right to the front of such a lovely restaurant where we got a warm welcome back. We love this island and the way we can move around the lagoon, stop in different spots and get a different experience in each. It has a reputation amongst cruisers as being expensive and restrictive due to the requirement to use moorings balls, however we found the local food no more expensive than other islands but you can also upscale it too. We opted to pay for a month of mooring which is just $10 a day and we get rubbish collected and really enjoy our visits from the lovely guys that manage the moorings.

Driving out for Andrew's birthday dinner

Birthday treats

What a wonderful dinner - St James Bora Bora

Bora Bora Yacht Club

After a week or so behind the Motu we went back to Bora Bora yacht club to top up the fuel, make one last trip for tapas at St James, provisions and then we were ready to head to Maupiti. Our last night was lovely and calm so we drove out to the reef for a ‘beer and a bob’ in the shallows, but ended up being welcomed to private island by the caretaker Mana and his dog Mika – we shared our beers and got a full tour or the Chinese owned island that up to 250 tourists visit each day usually.

 

It actually didn’t end up being our last evening as the rain was just terrible the morning we were due to depart so we opted to wait a day and finally left for Maupiti on June 20^th. With plans to come back to Bora Bora…..

Manu's Island sunset tour