Wednesday, June 22, 2022

Arrived Savu Savu Fiji - 21 June 2022

Bula Bula, the welcome as Mele took our mooring lines for the buoy at Copra Shed Marina Savu Savu 13.30 today - 10 days and 5 hours after leaving Bora Bora.

So we lost Monday; as we crossed the international dateline and I think Sunday night we will put in the same category.... we were having a perfect sail in northerly winds of about 10-15knots all afternoon, then the wind dropped and we put the engine on for a couple of hours. As the sun was setting we saw some sploshes, dolphins welcoming us to Fiji. On the bow I wasn't sure if they were dolphins or small whales. The colouring was super dark, with a round head and a curved skinny dorsal fin - will have to check online later. They rode the bow briefly and then went off into the night.

I went off watch, the wind picked up and Andrew had a fun sail through til midnight when the wind dropped and a storm cell approached from the west; it turned out to be the trough that we had been hoping we wouldn't have to cross. We furled the genoa and we were back under engine. With the squall the wind backed to the West and increased to almost 30 knots of aparant wind right on the nose. It really was pretty yuck or a few hours and we had little option but to change direction and seek protection from a nearby island. In the lee of the island, the sea smoothed and the wind eased. I slept ;-)

As the sun came up we saw the beautiful Taveuni Island, sunshine and a glassy sea, wow so beautiful. We gingerly approached the tip of the island about 8am and to our relief the wind had gone and we could motor across the bay to Savu Savu - about 40 miles. It was glassy, so we took the opportunity to run the water maker, wash the boat and do a load of laundry in the washing machine. Nothing like arriving in port organised and clean.

We haven't been ashore yet, but we have passed health testing and the immigration and customs officials will be on board soon. There's two marina's here; the other marina has two boats on buoys clearing in this afternoon too but the engine on their boat tender isn't working, so we have seen them rowing the officials around, it could be some time.

We are super excited to be here and get off exploring, I can already see hot springs bubbling in the creek where we are moored, the health officials also told us where to get the best curries - love from Fiji.

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Sunday, June 19, 2022

French Poly to Feee Geee - 19 June 2022 2200 UTC / 1200 local

Position: 16 degrees 53 minutes South, 177 degrees 54 minutes West
Wind: 16 knots North North East
Speed over the ground: 7 knots
Sea: 1 metre
Distance towards Fiji: 162 miles in 24 hours

Looks like tomorrow should be 'Feee Geeee' - we are practicing our bogun Aussie accent for arrival back in aussie crusing grounds - yeh nah, get a slab and chuck us a stubby, mate.... we have a longer list but it gets explicit pretty quickly.

So progress has been good and conditions were nice yesterday afternoon, until a big squall with 29 knots passed us with lightening and the sky went so dark (quickly all crucial electronics were in the microwave). After that we were left with no wind, we struggled to sail slowly until early evening but it was no good, engine assistance was required. With low revs and full sails we motor sailed through the night, with mostly regular wind about 6-10 knots from the NE. We abandoned our standard watch system after a winch got a big wrap and required deck work in the middle of the night - silly mistakes can happen when tired. So Andrew had a big sleep and then I did (until 0930 this morning!!) With the gentle purr of the engine and breeze from open windows it was good sleeping. Bacon and egg muffins and strong coffee prepared us for the day and after removing our pole set up, the wind backed to NNE and we were able to sail again, throughout the afternoon it has strengthened a little at we are currently sailing on a beam reach at 8 knots, Askari is loving it; so are we.

The second sourdough popped out of the galley today - for lunch with a jamon iberico platter and the last tomato - beyond delicious.

We had a beer with lunch today to celebrate that this afternoon we will cross the half way round the world point with Askari - we have sailed her exactly 180 degrees west since leaving Ipswich in the UK April 2016. So that's twice we have sailed half way around.... We will cross the international date line just before we arrive in Savu Savu. We are actually only just over 40 miles from Fiji's Lau Group - we unfortunately cannot visit this group of islands until we have cleared customs, immigration, been tested for covid (better hope it wasn't a faulty test Andrew...) and obtained a cruising permit, so we just have to wait to explore this remote part of Fiji.

Distance to go to Savu Savu approx 162 (same distance as we did in last 24 hours - spooky).

Yes I think he's feeling better.... but still needs A LOT of looking after apparently ;-)

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Saturday, June 18, 2022

French Poly to Fiji - 18 June 2022 - 2200 UTC / 1200 local

Position: 16 degrees 43 minutes South, 175 degrees 05 minutes West
Wind: 17 knots East North East
Speed over the ground: 7 knots
Sea: 2 metres
Distance towards Fiji: 174.41 in 24 hours (yes that's 0.01 miles more than yesterday).

It's been a reasonably fast but far more comfortable 24 hours and other than pathetic attempts by Andrew to string out this manflu, all is really well on board. I've been working on a song - definitely time to be on land. Yesterday afternoon I was a bit bored so rustled up a ginger cake - wow the best one ever, it has fresh, crystalised and powdered ginger plus rum, its sticky, firey and sweet. I think this is a new favorite. I must admit when we are on passage I do get a bit obsessed with ginger (she says writing and sipping a ginger and lemon tea). This cake though surpassed everything - yuuuuuuum! My Mum has sent me options to make custard without powder and I think it might be tonight's treat - ginger cake n custard. No chance of us knocking off a few kgs before we arrive.

Late morning we started to see winds north of east, we let our course move a little south as wind shift settled, of course with a few squalls. One had 36 knots and torrential rain. Other than the squalls its a beautiful day. At midday we switched the whole sail set, up for northerly winds, gybing the main sail, and switching the preventer and then furling the genoa and moving the pole and guys to the starboard. The most work we have done since leaving..... It was perfect timing as since then we have had wind ENE and now NE. By keep our direction settled as the wind changes we get the most comfortable ride, as it takes a while for the sea state to adjust too.

We did briefly see Oyster Irene IV on AIS this afternoon doing 11.2knots 20 + miles south west of us, we tried to chat on the VHF but they were just beyond our range. We will see them in Savu Savu in a few days - well hopefully 2 actually, as we just broke 300 miles to go so all being well we should have about 48 hours to go.

Captains note- trying keep my fluids up in face of everything. Even though i expect to arrive in Savu Savu quite thirsty

Distance to go at 1200 323.95 miles.

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Friday, June 17, 2022

French Poly to Fiji - 17 June 2022 - 2200 UTC / 1200 local

Position: 16 degrees 20 minutes South, 172 degrees 05 minutes West
Wind: 22 East South East
Speed over the ground: 7 knots
Sea: 2.5 metres
Distance towards Fiji: 174.40 in 24 hours.

Boisterous is what this is; ocean sailing is all about the sea state and last night it was boisterous indeed. We had such a big and confused sea, and the wind was 19 one minute and 27 the next, so setting course and sails was demanding indeed.

Today, shortly before we plotted our midday position the wind eased to 20/22 and the sea started to get a bit more consistent. We had lunch in the cockpit and the last of the fresh mint blew off our lamb n hummus sarnies in the 22 knots but we like the feel of the boat much more in these conditions it felt like something to celebrate - then we realised we had less than 500 miles to go - yay!

We can't sail directly at our destination so are wibbling along the rhumb line using the poled out genoa on the port side and then a small starboard side genoa when the wind is more south easterly. Andrew is VMG obsessed, as the wind should stay for another day and then will start to back to north east, go light north and maybe westerly laterly, according to the latest forecast. So we are trying to ensure we take advantage of this wind to make the best speed possible west while we can. We always expected a few days of light or head winds on this trip and have plenty of fuel aboard should we need a little engine assist. We have not needed a minute of engine since we left Bora Bora a week ago.

I have completed my short list of activities and adventures in Vanua Levu, Fiji and can confirm that the clip board will have 25 items including lots of diving and hiking, waterfalls and cultural sites and notably 'sacred prawns' (after the 'amazing' sacred eels in Tahaa. I can't believe Fiji has sacred prawns - apparently they are tabu and come when sung to.....).

In an update to the Man-flu outbreak - copious honey lemon drinks, tea tree oil, offering a wide selection of drugs and lozenges from the medical kit have made no difference to the coughing and spluttering. Dear gentle reader, I felt that we might need to prepare you for the worst, however, after a negative covid test and the aforementioned sandwich with his favourite hummus - he's now dancing to george ezra...

Note the Captain still thinks he has probably got long covid as he has had a cough for 3 days. Could be a faulty test...

I think Carolyn has overdone Bridgerton in this blog update

Distance to go approx 498.36 miles.

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Thursday, June 16, 2022

French Poly to Fiji - 16 June 2022 - 2200 UTC/ 1200 local

Position: 16 degrees 26 minutes South, 169 degrees 02 minutes West
Wind: 20 East South East
Speed over the ground: 7.8 knots
Sea: 2 metres south eastery plus a southerly cross swell
Distance towards Fiji: 175.72 in 24 hours (that's more like it)

It continues to be lovely out here, even with a bigger sea and a bit more wind (this afternoon we are mostly seeing about 22 knots) but it's still sunny and just one squall so far today. We have reefed the main sail as we were surfing so fast that things were getting a bit crazy when this new cross swell would slew the stern, pushing us more into the wind and backing the poled out genoa that then returns with a crash and huge vibration. The wind is also a little more pulsing today as this high pressure system we have been riding moves off. So our overall speed has reduced a little but it's a far nicer ride. We still have a long way to go so don't want to go breaking anything.

We have not seen any wildlife in the ocean, but the last few days we have had beautiful chatty tropic birds around the boat, reminding us that we are not that far from land even if we have a long sail to our destination. As I write it's only 150 miles to American Samoa to the North and 158 miles to Niue to the South.

Last night was glorious at sunset and we had a ginger mocktail in beanbags on the aft deck to celebrate half way. We nearly missed our radio schedule we were so distracted. One issue we are having is keeping our radio tuned - it's been a constant battle so one of us needs to attend to that, fortunately Grace are still close enough that they can relay our position. Our two closest boats, Grace and Rhapsody are about 100 miles behind us now, Sugarshack arrived this morning; we are super excited for them.

It's lamb dinner today, we decided we should eat the leg we had in the freezer it in case bio security in Fiji do not approve and a good excuse to roast a leg of lamb for lots of yummy leftovers for a few days. Just a shame no delicious pinot noir to go with it - that will have to wait.

Distance to Savu Savu - approximately 672 miles.

Footnote:
Following a significant outbreak of tropical man flu on board which has infected 50% of the ships company (Andrew)a full enquiry is underway to investigate the source. At this stage 3 possibilities are being investigated:
1. A flying fish which was found dead on deck the other night in suspicious circumstances
2. A passing tropic seabird which arrived from Wuhan
3. A significant mutuation of the earlier light Cold brought on board by Carolyn.
It seems that option 3 is the most likely and until a vaccine has been developed tropical man flu has been declared a variant of concern.

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Wednesday, June 15, 2022

French Poly to Fiji 15 June 2022 - 2200 UTC / 1200 local

Position: 16 degrees 29 minutes South, 165 degrees 59 minutes West
Wind: 19 East South East
Speed over the ground: 8.6 knots
Sea: 1.5 metres
Distance towards Fiji: 165.37 in 24 hours

The lovely conditions continue, sometimes a little slower and sometimes a little faster, but over 24 hours we averaged 6.8 knots with no significant squalls, a glorious full moon overnight, venus looking like she's a spotlight in the sky and another stunning sunny day today. We are really into a pattern now and later today will reach the half way mark. We are expecting another two days of good wind and then perhaps things will get a little bit more challenging, depending on what happens with a low that is expected to develop out of the south pacific convergence zone. Currently the two most reliable weather prediction models are not in agreement, so Andrew (otherwise known as Bob Tibbs on Askari- referring to the weather routers some sailors use) is carefully monitoring but for now we will just make the best speed west we can. We are also expecting a very big southerly swell to appear - we are hoping that is very long period by the time it gets here.

It was curry night last night and there was so much it's on the menu again today but i made some mango chutney and will add some onion bhaji, to mix it up a little. The victoria sponge turned out more like a victoria brick, but it is still yummy.

In big news we adjusted the spinnaker pole today a little to improve the shape of the genoa. This is the first time we have touched the sails in almost two days.... we are really busy though - hmmm, well maybe not, but we are really enjoying this part of the passage.

We adjusted the time on board by an hour today to take into account the distance sailed west.

Distance to go approx 848.

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Tuesday, June 14, 2022

French Poly to Fiji - 14th June 2022 - 1200 local

Position: 16 degrees 30 minutes South, 163 degrees 00 minutes West
Wind: 18 East
Speed over the ground: 7.0 knots
Sea: 1 metres
Distance towards Fiji: 162.14 in 24 hours

This is the day this boat was built for, since the early hours we have had 15 -20 knots of wind from the East, Askari is just gliding along averaging over 7 knots, sitting comfortably on a regular ocean with sun shining and a few fluffy clouds - it is just perfect out here. Andrew woke up and was really confused as he couldn't feel the boat moving.... This is the sort of day that not many people will ever experience and we feel very fortunate to be here - the hard work and often tears are worth it.

We have spent the day reading, relaxing, cooking and researching Fiji. Today we sailed by Palmerston island to the south, we really wanted to visit this island having spent time with Luna, a member of the masters family in Samoa on our first trip. Unfortunately the remote Cook Islands are still closed, but the more we read on Fiji we are getting really excited to have lots of time there. That is one thing we learned in FP is that time in a country makes the experience more personal and less touristy. Throw in some of the best soft coral diving in the world and I think we will be in paradise, next time Cook Islands.... ;-)

Today we had BLT sandwich with yesterday's sourdough and the thickest bacon, and amazingly still fresh salad. We are doing pretty well for food. This afternoon I am making cake and tonight we have beef curry and naan breads. Long may this continue.

Distance to go 1018.66.

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Monday, June 13, 2022

French Poly to Fiji - 13 June 2022 1300 local time

Position: 16 degrees 25 minutes South, 160 degrees 18 minutes West
Wind: 14 East
Speed over the ground: 6.0 knots
Sea: 0.8 metres
Distance towards Fiji: 141.48 in 24 hours

it's slow but beautiful out here. I don't think I can remember Askari averaging such low speeds on an ocean passage. The forecast 20 knots of wind today has been mostly 15 and less, overnight it was the same. The good news is that it meant we both had a really great sleep and woke up to a stunning sunny morning, with a gentle blue ocean swell pushing us along kindly. A perfect day to cook the first sour dough bread of the passage; and wow it turned out to be one of the best ever, even though I didn't measure the ingredients as the scales don't like the movement on the boat. I also used our GN espace oven, rather than the combination electric, and I can't believe the results. We had a chunk for lunch with foie pate - delicious!

Andrew did a full boat chafe inspection this morning and I did a few small chores; mending a tear in our bimini and firming up door handles that can loosen with the movement. I even managed a short knap - unheard of in daylight hours. Hence I missed 1200 plot time - 1300 today!

We have been running with full sails - genoa poled out on the port side for over 30 hours now.

Approx 1174 to Savu Savu.

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Sunday, June 12, 2022

French Poly to Fiji - 12 June 2022 1200 local time

Position: 16 degrees 20 minutes South, 157 degrees 46 minutes West
Wind: 15 East
Speed over the ground: 6.5 knots
Sea: 1.5 metres
Distance towards Fiji: 165.97 in 24 hours

The wind settled down in the afternoon yesterday to a mostly East South East direction around 20 knots and our speed was pretty steady around 7 knots, with a few squalls. Unfortunately the sea was still pretty yucky, so Askari was being buffeted around in the huge cross swell, so we both ended up sleeping in the saloon for our first off watch. I had a good night watch with no squalls, lots of stars so i spent the time watching Bridgerton in the cockpit. Andrew had a few squalls but by dawn the wind and sea were nicely in tune and the sun came up to a beautiful morning. It's Andrew's birthday - so that was nice. The wind has eased today and initially 15 was nice, but as the day has progressed its been more like 10 with a few squalls; not really enough to keep our sails full, which means a bit of flapping n flogging....

We are going okay though and i'm just cooking a chicken and leak pie for Andrew's birthday. This morning we had cheese cake from the wonderful French Patisserie in Bora - yummy! He really appreciated messages from family and friends - cheers from the ocean!

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Saturday, June 11, 2022

French Poly to Fiji - 11 June 2022

Position: 16 degrees 44 minutes South, 154 degrees 49 minutes West
Wind: anywhere from 11 to 28 knots SE to ENE
Speed over the ground: anywhere from5 to 9 knots
Sea: 2 metres
Distance towards Fiji: 163.24 in 24 hours

We left the pass at Bora Bora at 10am, after a leisurely start as the wind was still light; around 10 knots. Initially we were only making about 4.5 knots but as we approached the beautiful island of Maupiti the wind filled in at about 19 knots and we started pushing along nicely sailing at over 6.5 knots. We had rigged our spinnaker pole inside the lagoon on the Port side but the wind was initially mostly south easterly, so it was not required.

Things got a bit lively later in the evening (after the first day lasagne of course) and it ended up being a bit of a bouncy night, with squalls coming and going with lots of wind and rain and leaving us in wind holes and yucky seas afterwards. At 0800 this morning we saw 34 knots sustained - that really not what I wanted for the first 24 hours. Andrew noted Askari rushing down waves at over 11 knots.

We are sailig with Rhapsody and Grace close by, Sugarshack are ahead by a week and we expect Pico to be following on today. We have our usual SSB radio net and another little chat with the boats bound for Fiji - we named it the Jubilee net as it was agreed onboard Grace during Jubilee celebrations.

This morning after breakfast, we were trying to adjust the main sail when I spotted the line that tensions our vang (the gadget that holds the boom and mainsail downwards) had jumped off it's wheel and nearly chafed through inside the block. We quickly set about the repairs. We slowed down for about an hour while Andrew cut the old set up off and rigged the new block and rope that I dug out from our stores. It does give me the wobbles when things like that happen, we have to be super cautious as we are a long way from land already; as there is no turning back in this sea and wind. Any how job done and we are flying along again in between squalls.

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Friday, June 10, 2022

Fiji Bound

We are finally ready and have a good, fairly strong wind, forecast for the sail to Fiji.

It’s been a week of partying as we have already said goodbye to Sugarshack at Bloody Mary’s, Seneto arrived in Bora and then Uhuru came in for one night of cocktails and calamari. In a surprise we met Louis again on Irene IV who we met the day we both took ownership of our Oysters - we were invited for a wonderful dinner aboard with his family. Then it was our official leaving drinks with Grace, Seneto and Accomplice at Saint James bar. All the while we have been working hard, checking everything from the top of the mast to the bottom of the keel, provisioning and even getting a coat of polish on. 

Last night in FP with lovely Te’a

At Saint James

Andrew and Teiki- last night in FP

Onboard IreneIV with Louis and Sabine 

Last night Teiki and Te’a surprised us for the best Polynesian send off from French Polynesia. They joined us in the anchorage for an evening of wine, stories and music. I even played my Uke, badly. Teiki brought his accordion and harmonica and Te’a her ukulele. They both sang songs of Bora Bora and their special island; Huahine with Te’a translating the meanings for us. They are all about love, islands, sea and nature. This amazing couple will remain friends forever I hope. This is the hardest thing about leaving, the Polynesian people -who are so amazing, kind, welcoming. We have been very fortunate with the friendship bestowed on us here; very special indeed. 

We will try and update our position as we go.