Askari Sailing: New Caledonia to Vanuatu

We had planned to spend a few weeks exploring the lagoon and small islands of New Caledonia, however after we enjoyed lunch at our favourite French bistro, stocked up at the fabulous market and had a lovely party on board Uhuru with friends on Isis, El Gaucho and Katoosh we came to the conclusion it was still too cold so we opted to clear out on Monday and make our way to Vanuatu.

If in Noumea do try and get a table at La guinguette

Always the best parties on Uhuru

Andrew went off to clear out and I spent hours on Monday trying to find somewhere to change some money to Vatu that I had promised Jin after he bought me a meat grinder at Carrefour – more on that later ;-). I met a nice English lady at the currency exchange who was also getting Vatu, and we met again at the fuel dock – their boat Broadsword also heading to Vanuatu.

5^th June 2023 We finally got clear on the marina just before midday and as we left the harbour at Noumea we had the biggest dolphin ride our bow, I am sure he was looking right at me as he followed me to each side of Askari and turned right on his side; I never get bored of dolphins. We sailed on the tide all along the south west of New Caledonia in a lovely SSE wind; overtaking our new friends on Broadsword but nearly being overtaken by a French boat as we approached the Canal Woodin where we needed some engine to push us through the narrow chanel protected from the wind. The current had just turned and we had about a knot against us at 1530. We opted to pull into Baie de Prony for the night where we knew there was public moorings in the protection of Ile de Casey. French customs give you 48 hours after clearance to exit the island so all was good and we enjoyed a lovely calm evening off a beautiful island sadly with a view of a very ugly mine site. That is sadly the story of New Cal- it’s a complicated island with a lot of tragic issues from mining and historical treatment of the indigenous people. We haven’t spent enough time here to understand, but it doesn’t feel good – perhaps another reason to head off to Vanuatu.

Sailing by Broadsword

Mooring Ile de Casey

6^th June 2023 We dropped the mooring at 0700 and motored out of Baie de Prony, as the Prony Express whizzed into the Bay bring workers to the mine at 30 knots. This vessel was one of Andrew’s so we are probably complicit in benefitting from the mine too ;-(

By 0830 we were sailing again with mostly 12 knots of wind from the SSE, but it was a little gusty as we approached the pass around the southeast corner, the wind strengthened to 18 knots and followed us around the island and we sailed downwind with just the genoa up the east side of New Caledonia for the day. The sea was a bit confused and we both felt a bit pukey as we approached Cape Pouareti, so we motor sailed for a bit until we turned a little west and sailed again along to Baie de Kouahoue where we dropped anchor in 18m of sticky red mud – super pretty, protected bay with high cliffs all around. There was one small village as we entered the bay; it’s marked at ‘Prive’ on the chart so we made sure we anchored out of sight, but the fishermen came by and gave us big friendly waves as we enjoyed a sundowner beer and took in the scenery. It was a bit gusty in this bay overnight but calm and we both slept.

Pretty anchorage at Base de Kouahoue

7^th June 2023 we woke early at 0520, and so decided to get underway and sail to towards to loyalty islands. There were a few squalls around but the wind was mostly 15 knots from the SSE, we were treated to a lovely rainbow as we sailed north east making about 7knots over the ground making our way back out into the Pacific Ocean. During the day several bands of showers came over playing with the wind but we managed to avoid getting wet. The sea was really confused and Andrew really wasn’t feeling good, so I had a day of playing ‘sailor girl’ – I actually think I did pretty well, sailing downwind as well as close hauled all on the same course, throughout the day with heaps of different wind strengths and angles.

Leaving New Caledonia at sunrise

We reached the corner of Lifou and decided to make another stop, so Andrew could get over his ‘mal de mer’. The wind followed us around into the huge Baie du Santal and we were able to sail straight into the anchorage. The island smelled so delicious – the real smell of land with a powerful frangipane aroma – we really didn’t like how Noumea smelled so this was such a treat.

Sailing into Lifou

We didn’t plan to go ashore but before we had even set our anchor in the crystal clear water – (yes I could see the bottom in 17m!! ) fishermen with a very speedy looking boat and huge reels came by to give us a loud ‘Bienvenue’ and said we were welcome and that Pierre would like us to go ashore and say hello. We didn’t know who Pierre was but we were told he lived in a blue house…. We had heard a rumour that the loyalty islanders might not be welcoming; something we found hard to believe as our experience tells us island people are some of the kindest most welcoming. Lifou was no exception, even when we explained we had cleared out but would just rest and push on. Pierre gave the impression he’d like us to stay and explore their island, he showed us his family traditional house and we chatted about island life and the kids future for a while in our broken French and his broken English.

Lifou beach so perfect

Pierre shows us his traditional house

Lifou

We took a packet of TimTams to share a bit of Australiana with him; he didn’t know they were Australian and said how much he loved them (I don’t’ think the kids were getting any), it was a great intro to talking about our favourite foods and how they get goods on the island. As we arrived at the beach, he was being interviewed by a TV reporter on climate change. His island had been subject to a coral bleaching event and the water was reportedly far warmer than it usually was. I agree it was warm – when we got back to Askari I had my first ocean swim in oh so many months – yaaaay! It was still cool in the evening, but we did eat dinner outside.

We are really getting such benefit from our Starlink – in all these remote spots we have stopped in, usually we would only be able to get limited weather and updates. Now as soon as the anchor is down we have super-fast full internet connectivity – just amazing. We don’t have it fully wired in as yet but it is probably only a matter of time….. We were also saying how when we spend time in places, we can probably help locals etc by allowing them access – I know several examples where people have had to go to other islands to speak to family or submit school work – how cool if we could help!!

Sunset at Lifou

8^th June 2023 As much as we would have liked to stay in Lifou and get to know Pierre and his family better, but we had cleared out and had a good weather forecast to sail to Vanuatu – should only be overnight from here about 200 miles. We pulled anchor at 0700 – today Andrew was on the Stugeron…. We motored out of the bay in the rain with a glorious rainbow towards what looked like a ‘mer tres agite’ – hmmmm not what we expected…. It turned out to be the effect of really strong current at the top of the weird shaped island; we motored sailed through it and out into lovely gently ocean with 15 knots of wind from the south south east – we set the sails and pointed to Efate, Vanuatu.

Rainbow leaving Lifou

What an amazing sail towards Vanuatu – we did have a few squalls and rainbows; which were a feature of this trip, but winds only once got above 25knots and mostly were 15 to 18 from the South East, the perfect wind angle to Port Vila. Around squalls sometimes the wind dropped or went more south but mostly the sea didn’t get too big and Askari enjoyed a lovely broad reach across the coral sea, averaging just about 7 knots.

Position 1200 local 8^th June 2023 20 degrees 24 minutes south, 167 degrees 11 minutes East, SOG 6.9knots, COG 012 degrees mag, wind 13 knots at 143 degrees mag.

I had made a quick lasagne and sourdough bread in Lifou so didn’t have to cook this trip but we were a bit peckish Thursday afternoon so I did make some vegemite and cheese swirls, which were a huge success. The sourdough was the first one I’ve made with oats and all white flour – pretty yum food all round.

9^th June 2023 – approaching Port Vila

Yes we had a rainbow over the stern of the boat as we enjoyed our morning coffee. And Andrew had even taken off his fleece; which I think he’s worn every minute since we left Australia. We are really hoping it will be a bit warmer in Vanuatu.

The wind eased of a bit in the early hours so we added some engine assist so we could get in around lunchtime to hopefully arrange clearance. With this wind angle we only need 1500 revs and the speed increased to 7.5 knots and we charged the batteries, made water and had hot water for arrival showers.